Difference between revisions of "Talk:DEWBOT VII Philadelphia Regional"
MaiKangWei (talk | contribs) (→What worked?) |
MaiKangWei (talk | contribs) (→What worked?) |
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:#Flexibility | :#Flexibility | ||
− | :#[[DEWBOT VII Minibot#Fanger|Fanger]] and [[Bident Aft (Fanger)|deployment]] | + | :#[[DEWBOT VII Minibot#Fanger|Fanger]] and [[DEWBOT VII Minibot Deployment#Bident Aft (Fanger)|deployment]] |
:#Robot robustness & reliability | :#Robot robustness & reliability | ||
:#Pivot drive (when mojo available) | :#Pivot drive (when mojo available) |
Revision as of 13:57, 15 April 2011
Contents
- 1 Preparation - To Do List for Thursday
- 1.1 Prioritization
- 1.2 Switch from Pulley to Chain Drive
- 1.3 Put on Competition Claw
- 1.4 Switch Compressors
- 1.5 Turn around Minibot Deployment
- 1.6 Mount Hangar
- 1.7 Install Torsion Brace
- 1.8 Mount Camera
- 1.9 Mount sonar sensor
- 1.10 Check pivots
- 1.11 Test all sensors
- 1.12 Adjust sensitivity of line-following sensors
- 1.13 Test Fangers
- 2 Post-Mortem
Preparation - To Do List for Thursday
Add part locations (probably the spare parts box), hardware and tools, etc.
Can we estimate how long each of these changes will take, or have a time to shoot for? --Julie
- What did we say, Clem? Pulley-Chain 30min; Deployment 20min; Compressor, Brace, Hangar 10min/ea; Camera & Pivots 5-15min/ea? Thursday-time, that is. - Siri
Is the BOM up to date for all these (minus compressor), or would you like a hand? - Siri
Prioritization
- Best to practice with ASAP (in order)
- Pulley to Chain Drive
- Mount sonar (test autonomous)
- Mount camera (test on FMS)
- Turn around deployment
- Competition Claw & Torsion Brace (nice but not necessary)
- Must be done before inspection
- Switch Compressors
- Mount Hangar
- Pivot check (ensure no inspection-worthy changes)
- Technically ok post-inspection
- Full pivot check
- Test all sensors
- Tune line-followers
- Tune arm PID (but would also be nice for early practice)
- Test Fangers (inspected separately)
Switch from Pulley to Chain Drive
- Remove arm drive motor assembly from arm column, cutting the belt
- Unbolt arm angle sensor mount; remove arm sensor
- Remove elastic counterbalance
- Unbolt lower bar pillow blocks
- Unbolt lower bar at triangle
- Remove lower bar
- Unbolt (2) ¼"-20 bolts securing 56T HTD5 pulley; remove pulley from lower bar
- Replace pulley with 42T sprocket/hub assembly; align key with keyway perpendicular to the ¼" mounting holes
- Insert lower bar axle back into pillow blocks
- Rebolt pillow blocks to columns
- Rebolt lower bar end to triangle
- Restring elastic counterbalance (5 passes); secure elastic using wire-ties out of the sprocket path
- Remove arm drive motor from mounting plate & bearing block
- Remove Remove 20T HTD5 pulley from arm drive gearbox shaft
- Install ½" ID x 0.32" PVC spacer on arm drive gearbox shaft
- Install 9T #35 sprocket (McMaster-Carr part # 6280K311 - bored thru to ½" with 1/8" keyway) with sprocket end towards the motor (hub end towards the shaft end); use a 3/32" key
- Install (1 or) 2 ½" Nylon Washers on the arm drive gearbox shaft outboard of the 9T sprocket
- Place the bearing block on the shaft end
- Drape the prepared 59-link #35 chain loosely on the 9T sprocket
- Bolt the arm drive motor/gearbox/bearing block assembly to the arm motor mount plate using (6) 10-32 x 0.50" FHCS
- Loosely secure the Arm Motor Mount to the column using (7) 10-32 x 2.00" FHCS & nylocks
- Secure the 59-link chain around the 42T sprocket with a master link; master link clip facing away from the lower bar
- Pull down on Arm Motor assembly to tighten chain (rotating arm to take out slack on both sides)
- Remount arm sensor mount
- Support the lower bar parallel to grade (use a spirit gauge)
- Reinstall & Calibrate encoder
- Check/set preset heights (floor, low, mid, high--HOW?)
(Tape measure + Ben or mark a couple PVC banner stand pipes. I'll document the heights Saturday. Don't know how/how crowded the practice field will be. - Siri)
As long as the encoder is calibrated where level is 90 degrees, there shouldn't be much change to the arm angles for the preset heights. --Julie
(So run a practice match and then see? Works for me. I'd still like those heights for reference though. Do we have them or should I measure? - Siri)
We've never had heights, just arm angles. --Julie - Tune PID
- Attach rear chain guard
- C-clamp side chain guard, drill new hole & bolt on
Put on Competition Claw
Time: <5min
- Unscrew jam nuts at linkages & unplug pneumatics
- Screw in Competition Claw's jaw nuts at linkages & plug in pneumatics
- Test floor height and wrist & jaw actuation.
- Any time: put on longer start position Velcro. (But always take off the bungee cord before the match!)
Switch Compressors
On standby pending Q&A
Suggest we pre-mount the compressor on new cross-bars at DRC. In mounting this to the robot, use one set of existing holes; use the holes in the mount bar as a template for drilling the two new holes needed. - Clem
That was my plan (hence "new bars with compressor"), but I don't know how rigid the orientation is. I remember with the Thomas's old standoffs, squaring the mounting was kind of annoying. Looking at the diagrams we should be fine, but if it's in Saturday I'll try it. - Siri
- Unscrew compressor mount bars
- Unplug pneumatic hose, disconnect wires and remove compressor
- Bolt in new front/rear mount bar (with compressor attached) and clamp rear/front bar in place. (I'll pick which when I finish CADing the new assembly (pending GDC cutting us a break) - Siri)
- Drill (2) new mount holes for bar that's shifting. (Do we need to tap those holes? - Siri) (Are existing holes tapped? - Clem) (I'll check Saturday - Siri)
- Screw in new bars with compressor & plug in pneumatic hose & connect wires (Do the wires disconnect compressor-side on both and/or do you know how to do this? - Siri)
- Test
Turn around Minibot Deployment
- Unscrew Bident & staff and pull out
- Unscrew back plate (with cylinder). Ensure pneumatic hoses are labeled.
- Unscrew Standoffs (keep rollers on them)
- Put jig in place & drill new Standoff & back plate holes
- Screw Standoffs & back plate in place. Ensure back plate is within frame perimeter. Ensure rear-most rollers are off-centered towards the robot front (as far from the Bident as possible, or it may go outside of the frame perimeter).
- Screw the new Bident & staff into the cylinder. Ensure Bident is in frame perimeter.
- Wire tie the pneumatic tubes so they can't be pinned by the retracting cylinder.
Mount Hangar
- Put on top edge clamp (4 bolts)
- C-clamp bottom angle in place. Ensure Hangar is in frame perimeter.
- Drill bottom angle mount holes in frame perimeter & bolt (3 bolts)
Install Torsion Brace
- Install top brace clamp (8 bolts)
- C-clamp bottom plates in place & drill H holes in frame (4 total)
- Bolt bottom plates in place (4 bolts)
Mount Camera
- Drill mount holes (2 holes, on reverse deployment jig)
- Mount camera & plug in (wire tie wires)
- Mount iron sight (needs jig)
- Test/calibrate
- Remove old camera mount
Mount sonar sensor
- Remove and unwire one front Sharp IR sensor
- Mount and wire one sonar sensor
- Test
- Update BOM accordingly
Check pivots
- Check nylock nuts for nylon engagement. If they do not engage the nylon, remove and loctite.
- Fix broken/disengaged shaft collar. Check other collars for engagement on the shaft and tightness. Add plastic spacers (same as Duex) and wire tie.
- Check pulleys. Raise if necessary, add spacers and wire tie.
- Check chain & belt tightness and wheel turning. Loosen CIM if drive is too stiff.
- Check sensor stand offs. Are they bent or showing signs of damage?
- Check treads. Make decision when to change. Check for bolt stripping throughout and determine how long change would take.
- Modify chain guard to fit with hangar.
- Test (Optional: color/tape 1 triangle on black pulleys for visual confirmation)
Test all sensors
Time: 5 minutes
- Run Testboard VI to check that all sensors can be read (this includes digital encoders).
- Run Testboard VI to check that all sensors can be read (this includes digital encoders).
Good call. Time? (All your guys know how to do this, right?) - Siri We should get the VI on your computer as well. --Julie
Adjust sensitivity of line-following sensors
- On real field if possible, ensure that photoelectric sensors indicate no signal (green light) on carpet and signal (yellow light) on grey tape.
Test Fangers
- After set of fangers pass inspection, test each one manually on the field poles. Make any fine tuning adjustments. Rank fangers for performance.
Post-Mortem
- Okay. We won. Why a post-mortem? To learn and to do things better next time.
What worked?
- Perserverence
- Flexibility
- Fanger and deployment
- Robot robustness & reliability
- Pivot drive (when mojo available)
- The pit
- Arm changes since Finger Lakes